On The Condor Trail: Into the Wild Heart of the Huayhuash Cordillera

Before leaving the Huaraz mountains we wanted to do one last adventure, a good trek. After seeing the story and photos of my friend Adrian How trekking on the Huayhuash circuit it was obvious that this would be the trek we would elect.

The Huayhuash cordillera is situated 140km south of Huaraz. It constitutes an isolated massif continuing Huaraz's white cordillera. Its highest peak, the Yerupaja culminates at 6635 m.a.s.l. Most of the route is set above 4200 m.a.s.l. making it a bit of a challenge for people like us, not used to high altitude.
The good thing is that this circuit is fairly unknown to the general public so it is not as crowded as other trek options around Huaraz. The place is mainly known for the unbelievable alpinism story of "Touching the Void" set on the Siula Grande mountain.

We decided to do this trek unsupported. First thing rent a tent and a few camping accessories second mission shop for food that would last for 9 days and would not be too heavy to carry around the mountains. After a good day of preparations we were ready to go.

The trip

Day 1:

Stats: 12km, 660m of elevation gain

On the first day we woke up early to get the 5 a.m. bus that would take us from Huaraz to Pocpa, the last village before the start of the circuit. We arrived around 11 a.m. in Pocpa and started to walk with our heavy backpacks to reach the first camp.

Laundry time

Let's start it!

The walk to the first camp was super nice as the weather was on our side.

Picnic Spot

Some interesting rock formations

We saw quite a few people during this first walk. It is always strange to see an old lady walking on her own in what seem to be the middle of nowhere.

After pitching the tent we still had time to wander around the camp site in menacing weather.

First try at my rain poncho

The valley

Some wall

Day 2:

Stats: 15km, 600m of elevation gain, max altitude 4690m

On the first morning we really struggled to wake up. The sound of the rain on the tent at 6 a.m. wasn't very appealing. We finally managed to wake up around 8 a.m after a fairly good night of sleep. I was very happy to see that my sleeping bag seemed to do the job.

The first thing we had in the morning was a farmer coming to charge us the park entrance fee. We had to get used to that morning routine, people coming from nowhere with a small bag full of tickets asking you "Hola, de que pais?" before saying "son 15 soles amigo".

Traditional Andes Housing

Finally we setted off just before 10 a.m. to start the ascent of the first pass. The weather was grim and reminded me of walking in Scotland (no offense :) ). On the way up some horse-riders caught up on us. They really looked like knights with their long ponchos and covered heads.

The knights

We quickly reached the snow line. It had snowed quite a bit on the night before.
We could definitely feel the effect of altitude as we were climbing. Getting near the top I had to stop every 100m.

Climbing

The valley we came from

Friend

We reached the top of the pass in the cloud and jumped to the other side. It is always a pleasure to see another world appearing as you are coming into the next valley.

On the other side

Till there the landscape reminded me of Scotland, but as we passed the next corner we saw the first glaciers.

"De que pais?, 40 soles amigo"

Defnitely not Scotland

There it was supposed to be the end of the first day of walking. But we took the decision to keep going in spite of the bad weather. Another pass to climb with snow rain and hail but a bit of sun as well on the way to keep us going.

Some sun, nearly...

After this strenuous day we reached the camp, and what a reward! The view of the glacier and the big big mountains.

For the entire night we could hear the cracking of the glaciers and the thunder of avalanches. This mountain was definitely alive!

Day 3:

Stats: 15km, 700m of elevation gain, max alt 4840m

We woke up in this incredible environment with sunshine hurray!! We were more than pleased by that. An occasion to dry all our soaked clothes.

Morning view

Village

We were now away from roads, the start of the real thing, only jagged peaks and glaciar lagoons. However, we passed a few villages and settlements. The people's way of life there was absolutely amazing. It could be the middle age. No running water no electricity, no road connection. Only a simple life from agriculture and livestock farming.

After passing the floodplain we started the ascent of the day's pass 4840m.

the mid-way mirador offered us an unique view on the three glaciar lagoon of Siula.

Siula lagoons

The climb was hard and steep and the altitude didn't help us. As we were climbing we got a few hail and rain showers reminding us that we chose to do this trek during the rainy season.

Not much more to go

Struggling a bit

Reaching the top was a relief and the views were worth it. Now it was "only" a descent to the next camp. We pushed quite hard with the idea of stopping only to eat and continue. But the walk was longer and more strenuous than we thought and as we reached the camp site we pitched the tent without hesiting much.

Going down the other side

Camp for the day

It proved to be a good idea as the rain came in in the afternoon and didn't stop until the next day. A good afternoon and evening of reading and cooking before the usual bed time around 8 p.m.

Day 4:

Stats: 12km, 450m of elevation gain, max alt 4750m

The fourth day was a fairly short day. Only one mountain pass. The good news was that the walk was ending close to some hot water spring. An occasion to relax a bit and more importantly to wash!

Morning routine

We got very lucky with the weather in the morning. Had a pleasant walk.

As we reached the next camp a hail storm rolled in. Luckily we found a basic shelter to eat our sandwiches. We were a little disappointed to get such hard weather as we wanted to bath in the springs in the sun. The thought of getting out of a water spring with the cold hail and rain and nowhere to dry wasn't very engaging.

Nevertheless we pushed till the hot water spring without knowing what we would get. What a treat! Three concrete pools of different temperatures. With the mountains all around. We had a quick bath and decided to pitch the tent right next to the baths in order to spend the rest of the day and some part of the night in the hot water :) . As we were pitching the tent, the usual "campesino" came to charge us. But he also offered us to stay in the shelter next to the bath and told us we could buy some beer of him. AMAZING! We got installed on sheep skin inside the shelter and went straight to the bath with a beer in hand. Bathing in hot water in the middle of the mountains after 4 days hiking was truly an unique experience. We spent a good part of the night in the water with starry sky a bit of rum and some music from our loyal portable radio.

Home

Happy!

Steamy mountain

Day 5:

Stats: 11km, 950m of elevation gain, max alt 4950m

The walk was looking fairly short on the map, but as usual proved to be strenuous. Themenu for the day, a high mountain pass at about 5000m. The path took us right next to a glacier. Very impressive.

As we got to the top the weather started to deteriorate and we got another nice hail storm. Making us feel like we were properly into the wild.

Into the wild

Reaching the next camp we spotted a few vicuñas (sort of mix between a deer and a lama). As the weather opened up a little we decided to keep going in order to reduce next day's stage.

We pitched the tent half way up the slope (at 4750m not far from the top of Mt Blanc) and got greeted by a condor flying passed. The first one of the trip!

Andes King

Day 6:

Stats: 13km, 330m of elevation gain, 1580m of descent, max alt 5080m

We passed our first very cold night. The tent was covered with ice when we woke up. My sleeping bag proved to be a bit light for negative temperatures.

Happy to see sun in the morning

We got a very bad surprise in the morning. As we went to the little stream to get water for breakfast we spotted a dead cow just upstream of the place where Geo went to fetch water the night before. Yuk!!

After breakfast we set off for the day's walk. A pass above 5000m. As we were walking up the valley we saw two other dead cows in the stream. We were disgusted and a little worried. But there was nothing els to do than wait and see...

The pass right ahead

The valley from where we came from

As we were climbing up the pass we spotted a few condors thermalling up with grace in the morning uplift. A beautiful spectacle!

Finally we reached the pass, my first 5000m! On the other side the views were breathtaking. All the 6000m+ mountains, glaciers, lagoons along with some red mountains, some of the most impressive scenery I have ever seen.

The way down was quite scary as we went down a super steep slope with friable rocks menacing to get detached and fall down. We didn't manage to find the path and went straight down wondering if this route would take us down to the valley. At this point we spotted in the distance a farmer climbing up this slope with his cows. Absolutely staggering!

Farmer climbing up

The rest of the day was a long valley walk that lead us to Huayllpa, the unique village of the trip.

It was good to get a good beer after this long walk!

Getting charged again

Day 7:

Stats: 11km, 1250m of elevation gain, max alt 4750m

First of November, my birthday! An unusual way to spend this special day. In the middle of the mountains. No big party or celebration, but a beautiful day with other amazing views.

We climbed up very leisurely, stopping at every 100m of ascent soaking the sun.

Picnic at the top of the pass

The mountains on the other side of the pass were very impressive! A color patchwork. Some red, green, blue white. It looked surreal.

The white cordillera's mountains in the distance

We had a very cold evening brighten up by a bit of birthday rum and chocolate, a treat.

Day 8:

Stats: 10km, 550m of elevation gain, max alt 4900m

We got woken up very early (at 5 a.m.) by the cold and had to wait for the sun to come out for about 4 hours, quite painful.

Finally the sun reached the camp and we managed to get started. We were walking really slowly, tired by the previous days of walking and the cold nights.

On the way up an old guy caught up with us. He was going hunting some sort of Andean bird in "his garden", some 5000m+ mountains. It was amazing to see how fast he was walking up.

At the top of the pass we left our bags and went up to see the views. Again STUNNING! Maybe even more than all the things we had seen so far. And once more a condor thermalling just above us.