San Felix has been an amazing stop. We arrived there in the morning after a long bus from Bucaramanga. Even if we didn´t had much sleep we quickly understood, taking the bus that was climbing above Medellin, that this day was not made to rest, but to fly.
View from the breakfast
Just arrived, we met with Dairo, a local pilot, friend of our contact who gave us the key of the small house that we were renting close the take off area. As expected, the place was quite rustic, but well, it is four walls some water runing and even some electricity, what else do we need! Especially when we are renting the place for less than 5 pounds a night for two.
The Palace
So after dropping the bags, we headed to take off to get something to eat. Dairo and his friends were motivated to go cross country, so we joined the team to attempt a distance flight.
The conditions were super good, so off we went. We quickly reached cloud base and started to think about leaving, but we were there before the locals. Anyway we decided to go for it. Bad idea! We went the wrong route. We didn´t fully understood (or listen) the advices. So I jumped to the next valley and encountered strong winds and turbulences. I finally found a place to land inbetween the motorway and some high voltage overhead lines. An interesting flight.
Landing zone
The next few days, we started to get into a routine of going flying every morning and evening (was strong at mid day) and go to the pueblo at night for some food and a few beers. It was very calm as most of the nights were done by 9.30 p.m. It is interesting, this place just out of Medellin was the proper country side. Only farmers and no tourists just there at the door of the second city of Colombia.
In the afternoons, we had some tremendous soaring conditions, with great views over Medellin and the country side.
Medellin
The back country
Geo flying over Medellin
The conditions were perfect to try a few maneouvres, so we took advantage of it.
The local pìlots once again were absolutely amazing and the kids fearless. It seems that here in Colombia there is no Week End pilots. You either fly every day or you don´t fly. That for sure makes an experienced pilot in a year time.
Crazy kid standing in his harness
The last day in San Felix, the conditions were not at their best (but still flyable as usual), so we couldn´t fullfill our desire to go cross country flying. Speaking with one of the local pilot we got a super good plan. Go to the other side of the big mountain to fly down to Santa Fe de Antioquia. This was perfect for us as it associated a bit of adventure and some touristic visit as the town of Santa Fe is a nice touristic highlight. It is better to go for a visit flying than by bus!
So after one bus, a mototaxi and an unxepcted pick-up ride we were at the other side of the mountain enjoying the view of the valley that the 900m of denivelation were offering us. The next goal was to find a take off area and as we were on the lee side of the hill we needed to hike down a little. Finally we found the perfect spot and prepared the wings carefully to ensure that we would go with no problem.
Looking for a take off
Just ready we got a a nice thermic breeze and off we went. We didn´t find any thermal to go to Santa Fe, but had a super nice 20min glide to San Jeronimo where we landed at the petrol station.
The view
Gliding down
At landing with the locals
Then we took taxi to go visit Santa Fe. It was another beautiful colonial village, but we a nice relaxed feel. Not too many foreigners, mainly Colombians eating massive (maybe I should say gigantic) bowls of icecream. This little adventure was a nice end to the San Felix stop.
Then we decided to leave our hill and go down into the hearth of crazy Medellin for a few days of party enhanced by the "Feria de las Flores" event.
Bonus:
The adventurers looking at Medellin thinking of the next party
In Bucaramanga we did't see much of the town. We arrived at the terminal and headed straight to a place called The Nest, an hostal owned by a paragliding pilot (Richi Mantilla) at 1 min of the take off. It was a very relaxing stop with a lot of Paragliding.
The Hostel
The Garden
The site in Bucaramanga is very easy and great for learning. In the morning there is thermic conditions and in spite of the small height, it it is possible to gain good altitude. At lunch time, a strong breeze arrives, and it is time for a break, a bit of reading and a siesta. Then around 3 or 4 p.m. it is perfect for some evening soaring. A hard rythm!
The take off with Bucaramanga
Evening Flight
We stayed there leaving this hard life for 3 days and then decided it was time for some more adventure. So we headed to San Felix (the flying site above Medellin) for some more action and try to get moving towards the south.
When we arrived in San Gil by night with our two big bags each and no hotel reservation, we thought, ouch, maybe it's gonna be a bit tricky. But not at all, as anything during our trip so far everything came to us naturally. As we just arrived in the hostel a guy came to us asking "guys are you paragliding pilots? do you want to come fly tomorrow?", and the only thing to do was to say "Claro que si!". So there we were, with an accomodation and a plan for the morning to go flying.
Arriving at the canyon
We flew for three days in a row in the canyon of Chicamocha. A top class place for thermal flying. I managed to get some really good altitude and could have went for cross country on most of the days, but some strong rain was surrounding the dry canyon. So I used this altitude to practice a few maneouvres, SAT and big wing overs, it was really nice to do it with 1000m plus under your feet.
After going a few days in a row to the same spot we started to know a bit better the team of tandem pilots. One of them, Richard, told us that we could rent his little house in Medellin at 2 mins walking from the take off and also that we could stay with his family in an other spot later on in the trip. So we were already set for accomodation in two other places, when I say that Colombia is easy! It is going to be hard to leave this country.
The canyon in flight
More Canyon
Head down
The local pilots were really impressive with their take off and top landing in thermic condition. We even saw one of the tandem pilot Sergio (a super nice guy) who gotcaught in a dust devil (a sort of mini tornado) coming to landing it could have been a serious thing, but thanks to his skills everything ended up well and passenger and pilot ended up sharing a beer together on the main square at night.
At the end of our stay in San Gil, we had quite a night out, with a lot of salsa dancing. The clubs were all located under the gas station, so you end up drinking with the truckers next to the gas pump; party with style.
The next morning I decided that the moment was right to change my facial hair style and headed to the barber to get a Vallenato singer (folklore from the carribean coast) style moustache. I haven't been disappointed.
Villa De Leyva is a little town situated at two hours north of Bogota. It is a beautiful colonial village surrounded by mountains where the people from Bogota come to spend the week end.
Villa De Leyva main square
There we were invited by Alex and Felicity that I had met previously in a 4x4 in the Guajira desert. Alex´s family hosted us like princes in an amazing place. The finca in which we slept was top class and they make us feel really at ease.
There we had the chance to eat super nice meals, learn a bit more about south american wines and play some pool enjoying a really nice Scotch Whisky with Alex´s dad. What else!
On one of the days we went for a walk around the valley. The photos speak for themselves.
With the family
The team
Alex in the river bed
Felicity over the gap
A big thanks to Alex and Felicity for this super nice stop that enabled us to recharge our batteries (if we except the last night where we enjoyed a little bit too much of these delicious drinks :) .
Our hosts
The idea for the rest of the trip was to try to fly paragliders as much as we could, so we left to the adventure capital of Colombia, San Gil and the famous Chicamocha canyon.
Bonus:
Coffee from the garden = delicious coffee in our cups
After a strenuous stay in Medellin I took the bus back to Bogotá where Geo, my travelling buddy for the rest of the trip, was arriving. The bus journey between Medellin and Bogotá has been a nightmare. As the main bus was full I had to take another company which was cheaper, but definitely less classy. I had the only seat that couldn't lean, the bus got into a minor accident just outside Medellin that got us to wait for the police to come for about 3 hours, the aircon was leaking on my face and to finish it up the girl on the seat in front of me threw up. Anyway, that's the joy of travelling.
Waiting for Geo I went for my first flight just outside Bogotá in a site called La Calera. There I met up with Jeisson, a local pilot that also happens to be the U-Turn (glider brand) retailer. He arrived with the radiator of his cars in his hands saying that it might be difficult to drive up to the flying site with his ride. Jeisson has been a great help and straight away gave me loads of contacts and usefull information.
Geo, Jeisson and some local pilots
I didn't think the day would work out as the wind looked strong and some showers were passing, but after two hours and a half chatting at the petrol station another car arrived and offered to drive me and a local pilot to the site. The end of the walk on foot made me realise quickly that we were at some altitude (about 2800m) as I was strugling to go at my usual pace. Arriving at the site the wind was good and despite of the menacing sky we took off. We quickly climbed over the take off and discovered the view over Bogotá.
Bogotá{s view from La Calera
The flight was good, but we had to dodge the drops! It was raining everywhere, wich doesn't seem to bother the local pilot that was doing all sorts of acro tricks on his old ran down glider.
Flying in the Rain
Rainbow from above
Happy Pilot
Geo arrived in the afternoon fairly late. We went for another flight straight away the next day on the same spot, but with a bit less rain.
Geo Flying in La Calera
For the next days, we just visited Bogotá and partied quite hard. We had a very funny night where we ended up in a salsa club that looked like a second hand shop or a Souq. Full of stuff. Stuffed animals, old TV's, cutlery and anything you could imagine. The owner, Arturo didn't even had space on the bar to serve beers.
Mathilde with her new friend
At some point Arturo's mum, a short woman dressed in pink and glitter stop the music to sing folkloric songs. It was great, "una chimba!", as they say here. At the end of the night (around 6 a.m.) after much more dancing and different places we ended up in a flat were one of the Guys was offering haircuts. A shame that Geo didn't had the money at the time as he really wanted to refresh his haircut.
But as things always happen very easily here, we bumped into the very guy the next day and he offered to cut Geo's hair in his flat.
Geo during his haircut
After these few days in Bogotá we decided to head up north as some friends that I had met in La Guajira (Alex and Felicity) very kindly offered to invite us in their Finca (which means farmhouse but is used for a house in the counrtry side).
Leaving from Minca I made a quick stop in Cartagena.
The city of Cartagena is highly appreciated by tourists due to its beautiful historical centre with multicolor houses and flowered balconies. The city used to be the main hub of the Spanish Empire in Colombia and therefore was a very wealthy place. But when you arrive in Cartagena if you keep your eyes open during the bus ride that takes you from the terminal to the fortified city centre it is a whole different story. The transport is a complete Mayhem (maybe you can blame that on being in the carribean) but more striking, most of the neighbourhoods on the way are shantytowns. In fact Cartagena happens to be one of the poorest city in Colombia. This highlights the level of wealth difference that you can observe in Colombia, and suddenly the city centre appears like a sort of Disneyland for tourists.
Arriving in Cartagena
Nevertheless I took a bit of time to walk around the city and it was really pleasant . Some friends compared the city with La Havana, this is the kind of feel there is in the centre, a chilled colonial town with a lot of tourists...
Cartagena Street
After this quick stop I headed to Medellin with the delightful 14 hours bus to meet up with a French friend who lives in Montreal who was coming to join me for a week.
Busseta leaving Cartagena
Medellin has been a really good stop and it was good to catch up with an old friend after nearly a month of travelling on my own.
Approaching Medellin
The city of the eternal spring (so called due to the perfect weather all year round) did not disappoint me. It is amazing to see the turn that this city managed to take. A few years back, the place was still one of the dangerous city on earth with drug cartels and extreme violence. And now you can walk in the streets with a striking feeling of security. The transport network is highly developped and cleanand even displays some cable cars to go in the higher neighbouroods.
Cable Car to Parque Arví
Romain and I in front of a Botero sculpture
My time over there has been divided between daytrips during the day (Parque Arví, Museo Botero, Guatape and the botanical gardens) and big parties at night. The party in Medellin is definitely part of the discovery, the city is famous for it, so when you are there, there is no excuses not to dance Salsa and enjoy some Rum in the crowded parks of the Poblado area. There is also another thing that I think is worth mentioning, it is the Medellin girls!Wow this is not a legend, it is a boob and but contest, even if this has to be won with the help of a bit of surgery.
The rock in Guatape
View from the rock
Guatape Main Square with Romain
And a little extra: the iguanas of the botanical gardens
